A Travellerspoint blog

Lulls of Opportunity - bessie gate crashes the buddy system.

Guest Blog entry by Miss Catherine Sweet (bess)

sunny -17 °C

P1020017.jpgI was treated to a little insight into life with Kate , Boo and the monkeys in their little Buddy van for 10 days. I brought a bargain Tent for £7 , risked the flu on Ryian Air , hiked across London with my 7ft board 'Matilda' and 'Serious Concerns' by Wendy Cope as my only companion after completing a grueling 4 night shifts in a row. Kate and Boo had 'serious concerns' about me when i arrived and compared myself to a very depressing poem ......so they fed me lentils, rice,onions, garlic,French bread, Cheese and Rum and Coke and who can forget the porridge and apricots and introduced me to their worlds...... and Wendy....., you know where you can shove your Serious Concerns!!!P1020043.jpg

On the plane i stalked a TV presenter and was keen to find him again when i arrived at the airport in France, instead i ran into two extremely albino Brown Twins holding a brilliant welcoming banner! They looked amazing! They had got living in a van down to a t but i had 'serious concerns' to learn that they took turns to sleep on the fridge so that they could stretch out at night to sleep, Boo was wasting away a bit and Kate looked like surfing Barbie but they both looked extreamly healthy and content.
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We started out in Biarritz and worked our way up the west coast and they shared with me their favorite places, we spent our days surfing, swimming, skateboarding, chit chatting, drinking coffee, Rum and knitting. We all knitted hats and even the monkeys got hats. Boo knitted an amazing hat by the lake one day which was totally lovely. I think we looked like total hippies! we probably smelt like some, i didn't have a single shower all week and totally loved the freedom of having an early morning invigorating swim in the sea and then showing next to a tramp on the beach. When i got home i tried to keep my sea curls by not washing my hair, i got to work and realized i had very bad dandruff!gross!P1020261.jpg

I spent the week admiring the choices of canine companions the French have whilst Kate and Boo admired homes like theirs along the way. The weather was lovely and i have the fondest memories of Kate and boos generosity and loved just hanging out with them in beautiful France. We all took some amazing photos and my little tent was a gem. So thank you masses Kate and Boo, i love you both tons, you are totally living freely and lightly and have faith in what your doing, you may never have this chance again xxxxxxxxxxxP1020258.jpg

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Posted by Reuben 03.09.2007 5:32 AM Archived in France Comments (0)

Road Tripping

West Coast - Mediterranean - Alps and back again!

all seasons in one day

Posted by Reuben 16.08.2007 12:00 PM Archived in France Comments (0)

Le Surfing

Biarritz' crowded line-ups!

all seasons in one day

Posted by Reuben 16.08.2007 11:52 AM Archived in France Comments (0)

Hippy Ya! [- Kate]

The Med - Alps Road Trip... (in part...)

all seasons in one day

few weeks old but wanted to write down the hippie experience!!...

57 nights in a campervan the truth.....when you imagine trips to the beach and camping it normally consists of 2 nights or maybe very occasionally a week at the end of this time you have had lots of fun and funny experiences and feel great for being out in nature, it is also the truth that you cant wait to get back to home comforts of bed/shower etc....we feel that we have broken through the camping boundary and have complied the following:

bad points about camping:

  • considering a toilet (with paper) a luxury! when free camping it is essential to use the forest as a nature toilet, hence when you get to use a bathroom you feel like the queen!
  • when we built the inside of the van we were quite rushed and the planning went a little out the window and we have ended up with a tiny bed which is forces you to sleep in the most uncomfortable way and we both have mornings of pins and needles and/or cramp plus a bad back/neck/shoulders!
  • not considering the fact that france and spain can have bad stormy, rainy days in the summer months we have discovered that a small retro van is much like living in a broom cupboard, when the weather is great its fine to have such a tiny home as you hardly use the van at all, spending all day outdoors and most the night, only cooking or crashing to sleep but when the winds start howling and the rain keeps coming, the last place you wanna be is crammed into the broom cupboard, especially when it contains almost everything you own.

Knowing that we would probably not make it all the way to Morocco and back in our little tin can we started on a road trip to the med coast and then up to the french alps and then back across the middle to Biarritz, all the places we havent ventured to before and its been really fun! lots of driving but we feel we have truely experienced life on the road, eating basic meals at various different locations and the fun of stopping whenever you feel like turning off the main road and exploring whatever you may find, its brilliant as when you have so many miles to cover in one day you find that each morning can be completely different to lunch time and somewhere different again in the evening. we have been in search of surf but not found anything but a small ripple, instead we have found many nudy beaches, old towns, the bluest of seas, incredible mountains, windy never ending roads up and down the alps, mini hurricane, more storms, the canal de midi, gorgeous bays where you can dive off the jetty into the sea, swimming in an icey cold lake with a waterfall, the posh people of saint tropez, altitude sickness, and to top it all off a hippy commune. We are over half way through now and just outside the cool town of Lyon, slightly annoyed that we were two days late for a arcade fire gig. Its really nice to be back on ground level as the altitude was hitting us bad, sometimes making you feel slightly drunk (good) or sicky and sore ears! we found a real cute campsite which was really old fashioned and didnt end up charging us for the two nights we stayed, we are real tired as no sleep was had last night due to a massive storm in the mountains.

Anyone that has read 'On the Road" by Jack Kerouac will understand that you become taken with the idea of people hitch hiking and so whenever we have passed people needing a lift we have always tried to accommadate them, up until last week this kind gesture took a crazy turn and before we knew it was weirder than weird.......so we see this girl outside st tropez trying to get a lift, she looks like a typical traveller, nothing too strange and she has her dog with her, so i look at boo he looks at me and we decide to stop and help her out if we can...turns out she is going to the next town north and as this is not out of our way and she seems nice we decide to take her, she gets in and now i notice that she is not wearing any shoes and has real hairy legs and pits, not a problem just noting. She starts telling us about where she lives, that she lives with her boyfriend and another couple and one more friend, they have 3 dogs and kittens, so we are approaching the town and she says that she actually lives a few miles out of town and would we mind taking her there, so we are going down this crazy off the road track we start to think this is a bit weird and we are not sure whether this is gonna be awesome or the scariest and stupidest thing ever, arriving at a run down house we meet her housemates..... the place is such a mad set up that this is the first thing to shock us...who lives like this with stuff everwhere and a garden full of old motors and overgrown weeds and all sorts of stuff all over the place and the house has been covered on one side with mud and she tells us there is no electricity or running water....the housemates all had no shoes and mud and oil on their faces and half their clothes hanging off and we are trying to act like this is normal but actually on the way up to the house we now remember her saying something about her housemates wouldnt mind if we arrived naked and we both feel like we need to know more but if we stay we may be at risk as we are in the middle of the mountains no where near civilisation and we didnt really expect to find this, they show us the garden and one of the girls plays a wooden flute and they show us the things they have been making out of tin cans and we stay for a cup of nettle tea all of us drinkin out of jam jars and they start to tell us about rainbow gatherings and how magical they are, and the guy asks me if i would think about joining some kind of hippy commune like this and I say ummmm maybe not right now! Its like a scene from the book "the beach" its all great but a bit weird and we are feeling a bit uncertain and its getting late and we finally feel like we should leave when they ask us to come swimming in the river with them and we get away safely feeling that it was more than likely gonna be a naked swim with these people. In all we were there about 2 hours it was fun to experience but altogether we were glad to be back in our broom cupboard and driving far far away from that place!

Posted by Reuben 16.08.2007 11:45 AM Archived in France Comments (0)

Cathar Country

sunny 30 °C

I'm writing this sat opposite a bit of the Canal du Midi, East of Carcassonne, in the South East of France. We're on day 3 of a 22-day road trip East, North and then back West again.

After spending a couple weeks down on the South Landes coast, we decided we'd had enough doing-nowt-but-surfing-and-baking-cakes and opted for a bit of adventure (also influenced by a certain gale-force onshore wind that was wrecking the surf). We did get a couple of decent surfs at St Girons Plage though these were bone-crunchingly dumpy waves which, if you were lucky and able to tuck in tightly and quickly enough, you'd get a 3-second ride before being sucked down and bounced off the sandy bottom.

It feels good to be moving on again and seeing some new stuff; the Landes coast is totally awesome but it's very big and very samey after a few weeks; everything starts to look the same and you need a new buzz; the forests are all the same and the beaches are all very big and prone to blustery conditions (not complaining, just saying...). When you're in one place you start to pick up on a lot of consistencies and here are a few we've noted:
All the old biddies appear to be fitter than I am; they ride about on their old, small bicycles in their old frocks, saddle-bags full of groceries, making long round-trips to the out-of-town supermarkets; no bus passes here, for Public Transport is nowhere to be seen. And this is the reason why all the old ladies ride around on bicycles and all the teenagers scream around the place on ultra-noisy-like-brain-rattlingly-so mopeds - I can only presume that their helmets have ultra-heavy-duty ear protectors fitted into them, or maybe they all get deaf or stupefied by the time they're 25 and that's why all the pop music's so bad here? And maybe that's the reason for the final observation we've made (of those which currently come to mind) which is that the young men aren't very nice to their dogs; we've seen countless red-faced fellas attempting to put some discipline into their poor mutts by delivering shocking rib-punches the likes of which would bruise you or I a lot, nevermind the poor pooch, the bastards!

So being back on the road is fresh and new and jolts the brain a bit more than lounging around on the beach does (I miss it already). Pepped up by this, I've come up with the following get-rich-quick schemes for when we return to normal life:

1. Open up a Chippy which does both normal Chips and also Seasoned Chips too! Anyone who makes their own chips (baked is best) and has thrown some suitably spicy and savoury (not sweet; cinnamon would be shit) seasoning will know the awesome assault of the tastebuds that results. You could have a series of trays with various seasonings in them and give people the choice, throwing the plain ones, straight from the fryer, into the seasoned pan of choice, and then into the paper bag; awesome!

2. Design and build friendly-looking Campervans; the amount of favours, free bottles of wines, chats, free parking tickets, etc. we've had as a result of people liking our 'pretty little car' has been awesome! I'd like to convert old Renault Trafic vans into campers; those things are awesome; they look like they're made of Lego bricks and all the engine gubbins, etc. is right in the front so there's heaps of headroom in the rest of the vehicle; awesome

On the way across the South we spent a day in Toulouse. This experience was way cooler than the one we had there 2 years ago when, straight after arriving at our Hotel, we witnessed a stabbing and then our evening jaunt was cut short by teams of gnarly looking dudes all giving me and Mick scary looks; we ate Kebabs and Chips in our Hotel room!
This time, we arrived on a Sunday and the market was in session; approx half a mile of fruit stalls and other delicious stuff; I might go there one day when I haven't eaten for days, with a roll of cash in my pocket! We wandered around and found the old part of the City which is full of character and awesome old-skool typography. We looked around in a couple of Gothic Churches which, with all their medieval bling and decoration were, to me, more like wandering around some MTV star's Crib than a potentially spiritual experience. That said, one did stand out to me (I can't remember the name of it, got a leaflet somewhere...) which was more like it once was Bling but is now just a carcass. It's a big temple-style building (no inner walls) with recesses going all around the sides and in these recesses, various displays have been set up with less-than-considered taste. It's almost as if this was one-too-many churches to bother furnishing and noone knows what to do with it except put in some old tattered paintings, a few stage lights and a couple of those Tourist-trapping coin memorabilia things (put €2 in, get an old replica coin out).
It was cool to be back in a City; we found a nice little Tea House which served up big wine-bottle-sized bottles of Cider for €6 and you could sit outside and get baked in the sun (sheltered from the winds in those little streets). We also visited the Cinema; living in a van has made me realise how much I love movies, etc.; we saw 'The Good Shepherd' which filled it's requirement (as far as we were concerned) of being a big, well-produced-Hollywood-style flick though afterwards I did wonder what it was about if not just one big tragic story about some American spy?

Tomorrow lunchtime we'll arrive on the East coast and it would be awesome to find some surf there (it does happen, up around Marseille), but if not we'll leg it on to Nice and then all the way up to Mont Blanc, before heading back West across the country through the 'Central Massif' which looks rather awesome but like hard work for poor little Buddy.

Spice of the week is Cinnamon: Add it to Pancake batter or season some sugary, hot milk with it (excellent if you can't sleep and you're camped up in the middle of nowhere next to a gusty, spooky Lake and you've got no wine to get you to sleep) to help you nod off. Kitty's just baking some Butter Cookies with it in too; I'll keep you posted. The other benefit of this one is, if you spill it all over the van and yourself, it doesn't matter 'cos it smells sweeeet!

Posted by Reuben 20.07.2007 3:42 AM Archived in France Comments (0)

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